Dedicated to Preserving the Honey Bee through Community Action, Awareness and Education
Due to Covid 19 meetings location has changed
Next meeting:
Where: Your Home
When: August 20, 2020 7:00 PM
Speeker: Dr. Ramesh Sagili
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If you live in Longview or the surrounding area and already keep bees, intend to do so or are simply interested in this fascinating hobby, Cowlitz Beekeepers Association is the association for you. Even if you don’t keep bees, joining us will help support our cause, our community action and awareness and education programs.
Speeker:
Dr. Ramesh Sagili is an Associate Professor in the Department of Horticulture at Oregon State University. He obtained his PhD in Entomology from Texas A&M University in 2007 specializing in honey bee research. His primary research focus is honey bee health, nutrition, and pollination. Ramesh initiated the creation of Oregon Master Beekeeper Program and chaired the Oregon Governor’s Task Force on Pollinator Health. He has authored several important research and extension publications including the popular extension publication and app titled “How to reduce bee poisoning from pesticides” that is being used by many beekeepers, growers and pesticide consultants/applicators in the country. He has received several awards including the Entomological Society of America’s Pacific Branch Research Award, Eastern Apicultural Society’s Outstanding Research Award and OSU Outreach and Engagement Award. He will be updating us on his current honey bee research at OSU.
Zoom
It is a program that can allow hundreds of people to meet visually and share information remotely from their computer or smart phone. You can also listen in on a flip phone. It is not the same as an assembly of beekeepers but it is an effective way to share information and ask questions.
We’ve had some technical hurdles, but we are getting better at conducting meetings. I would like to see more of you join us. If you are nervous about trying it out, then shoot me an email and I will help you get started. If it’s a memory problem, then make sure you set up a calendar notification. Remember there are numerous YouTube video tutorials also.
I will be sending out an email with the link about a week before the meeting.
Handmade Proud:
Looking to buy new woodenware at reasonable prices?
• Bottom Boards
• Top Covers, Inner Covers
• Hive Boxes and more…
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Contact Jerry Herren
Ph. (360) 355-0051 Swarmchaser40@gmail.com
Our September
Guest speaker: Susan Cobey
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Susan Cobey currently works at the Department of
Entomology, Washington State University. Her focus is
stock improvement, the selection and breeding of honey
bees. Her main current project is honey bee germplasm
importation from native European honey bee subspecies
to diversity the U.S. honey bee gene pool. She also
operates Honey Bee Insemiantion Service, providing
hands on training, specialized equipment and a custom
service for the instrumental insemination of honey bee
queens.
American Foulbrood (AFB)
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by Dewey M. Caron
AFB is a bacterial disease of developing honey bee brood. AFB spores infect the larva in the earliest larval stage (newborn to 2 days old), generally through nurse bees supplying infected food. Infection spreads quickly among the larvae, as nurse bees, which carry the bacteria but are not affected by it, move from cell to cell feeding larvae. Only a few spores (<10) may be infectious. Once ingested by the larva, spores germinate into the active vegetative form within larval intestine. There they begin to massively colonize the larval midgut.
As the bacteria numbers increase, they escape the larval gut and the infection spreads to all tissues of the developing larva, causing sepsis and cell death. Larvae do not die until just as the larvae are capped – at this stage infected larvae completely breakdown into a glue-like consistency, extremely difficult for house cleaning bees to remove.
This is the stage to seek to find AFB in your colony. Look for sunken, greasy looking cappings with tiny perforations, Remove such cappings and look inside If you see a brownish (café-au-lait) decaying larval body that you can’t lift out from the cell it likely is AFB. You need to quickly get a confirmation of the field symptoms (via an AFB test kit, have an expert look at it or send sample off to lab to ID). When conditions become unfavorable for the vegetative form, this bacteria forms spores. Spores can survive decades. A single dead, desiccated larva (called scale) may contain millions of potentially infectious spores.
In the 1920s American Foulbrood (AFB) was a huge problem killing hives and causing the loss of thousands of dollars for U.S. beekeepers. Strict state bee laws were subsequently passed and state inspection and registration programs established. After years of enforcement, management and education (and widespread antibiotic use) AFB cases dropped dramatically, and state apiary inspection programs were discontinued, and inspections terminated. There is no current Washington or Oregon inspection service. Controlling American Foulbrood disease, like other diseases, is the responsibility of the beekeeper.
This year we have found AFB in nucs sold the Portland area. Because new beekeepers (along with established) are not familiar with AFB and we are not having live meetings to bring frames for examination (nor are labs open to diagnose comb samples), the three Portland area beekeeping groups have established task forces of board and club members to visit, with an invitation, the apiaries of individuals who suspect from field symptoms they have a disease problem.
The task force visit is designed to both assist the beekeeper with confirming field symptoms and to discuss possible solutions. There is no fee and no individuals will be identified. With persistent EFB this spring, and PMS likely to appear as the nectar flow dries up, confirmation of probable cause is important because the solutions are varied and different in AFB, EFB and PMS situations.
The most important thing that you can do is to learn the signs of AFB/EFB disease and PMS, so that you can take swift action if control is warranted. Both AFB and EFB disease originate when the bees establish contact with an active infestation (via robbing, drifting, beekeeper transfer of infected brood or purchase of nucs) or when pathogens are contacted via honey with spores or when comb with scales are reused (such as might occur in stored equipment from a dead-out that previously succumbed to the disease are put into service). PMS appears with failure to or ineffective mite control. Colonies that are weakened/dying from these disease conditions become weaker and weaker and serve as a source to infect additional colonies in your apiary, feral bee nests and the colonies of neighboring colonies. They are situations where it is important to practice responsible beekeeping.
I have information sheets on AFB, EFB and PMS that are posted on the Cowlitz website. They discuss the field symptoms, how to get confirmation and what might be some solutions if AFB/EFB or PMS is found and confirmed. https://cowlitzbeekeeping.wixsite.com/website/projects
Members Can borrow the Club Extractor
Contact Kathy at 360-601-0393 to schedule.
Out in the Beeyard
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by Bill Holmes
I pulled my supers this year on July 30th which is about normal. I always remove supers close to August 1st for a couple reasons. First, I want to begin mite treatments early enough to be sure I have healthy winter bees. Secondly if the deeps are light then late summer honey will get stored in the hive and not in jars so that, hopefully, I won’t have to feed them sugar. I had 6 hives produce this year which is the same as last year. This was a great nectar year with blackberries blooming into July but I had trouble keeping the hives at full strength as they thought it was a great swarm year.
This year’s hives produced 18 supers while last year was 24. Average hive weight was down also by 5 pounds to 44 reducing the average super from 3 gallons to 2.5. I know that if I replaced my queens each fall I could maintain a strong population and have higher yields. But my beekeeping joy comes from working with them and seeing them thrive with home grown local queens. Honey is my reward not my goal.
I use a fume board with Honey Bandit to move the bees out of the supers. It smells a little like almonds, is made with food grade ingredients, and it does not stick with supers for long. It has always worked well for me if the sun is shining and it’s a warm day. Last year I tried bee escape boards, which I had heard great things about including online reviews. They did not work well for me and ended up just complicating things. I vowed to give them another try this year but when the time came to pull supers, I left them in storage.
I use queen excluders sparingly. Bees frequently are reluctant to work through them. I always put the first super on without one and then watch closely. If they begin storing nectar, then I can leave the QE off and when the super is nearly full, I can add another super and be confident that brood will not appear in any supers. Alternatively, if larvae start showing up in the first super I add the QE knowing the bees will stay with the brood and then will store nectar as bees hatch. Once the super is full of nectar I remove the excluder and add a second deep. What I haven’t accounted for the past 2 years on those booming hives that collect 4 or more supers is the bees will start moving honey out of the bottom super and start raising brood. I should either unstack the boxes and add an excluder or rearrange so the brood is higher in the stack.
Since harvest day is a family event, I need two uncapping stations. Last year I got one of those $150 ones that are pretty nice but it wasn’t quite wide enough to hang a frame which seems like quite an oversight. This year I went to Lowes and bought their model 14 for $30 complete with legs. A queen excluder fits quite well in the bottom and I built a wood frame for the top out of scrap. And as you can see a frame fits nicely. My crew would like two screws to anchor the frame while uncapping which was their only suggestion. The laundry tub is a big success.
Finishing the harvest means beginning the building a healthy hive phase. It is not complicated, and it involves four steps: assessment, planning, implementation, evaluate. You will have to develop the action steps you take based on your goals and they will be different for all of us. I first want to know how much honey they have stored, what is the mite load, what is the hive strength, brood pattern and health, condition of hive components, and a critical look at the immediate surroundings. With all this data you can build a plan by first researching alternatives and picking solutions for your situation. For me, the 3 biggest decisions usually involve how I am going to deal with the mites, will they need supplemental feeding, and what to do with weaker hives/queens. Implementation means getting out there and getting it done in a timely fashion. Then you absolutely must evaluate the results. If they did not produce the desired outcomes, then it is time to go back to the planning step. Bill
Eliminate Yellowjacket Problems
Edited article from May 2018 newsletter by Bill Holmes
The University of California Riverside researched the effectiveness of several insecticides placed in baiting stations to eradicate yellow jackets. http://www.pestboard.ca.gov/howdoi/research/2009_yellowjacket.pdf
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They discovered that a small amount of fipronil (active ingredient in Frontline flea and tick topical solutions for pets) mixed with Friskies Ocean whitefish or Swanson’s® brand canned minced white chicken was very effective at reducing YJ colonies.
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Fipronil is not registered for use against YJ’s, but the product that is registered, Onslaught, was not effective.
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Chicken or whitefish baits consisting of 0.0025 to 0.025% fipronil were consistently the most effective baits tested.
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The best results were obtained when the numbers of yellowjacket foragers exceeded 10 wasps/day/trap (Rescue Yellowjacket traps available at many stores)
You can buy fipronil in products like Taurus SC or Termidor SC, but only in quart or larger sizes and starting at something north of $40. You only need a few drops per baiting so this would be like a lifetime supply. Products like Frontline will allow you to get a smaller volume, but many have ingredients in addition to fipronil. For instance, Frontline Plus has methoprene that may deter YJ’s from visiting your bait. I purchase Sentry FiproGuard for small dogs from Chewy.com, 6 treatments for $16.51. Each vile is 0.67 ml of 9.7% fipronil.
First build a small cage using a couple of pieces of 1x6 lumber and ½” hardware cloth. The cage will keep birds and mammals out while allowing YJ’s free access. You should build in a door for easy bait replacement. Take a 5.5 ounce can of cat food and add 5 drops of fipronil and mix thoroughly. Place ¼ of the mix into a mason jar lid and set inside your cage. The remainder gets a cap and goes into the refrigerator safely and properly labeled. Remove and replace mixture daily for 4 days. Yellow jackets do not like dried out food. Also add fresh attractant to the nearby Rescue yellow jacket trap which helps attract YJ’s to the bait or squirt half the contents of a tube of RESCUE Yellowjacket Attractant onto a cotton ball and place inside the cage but not in the bait mix. Place the bait cage in the shade 4 feet off the ground and at least 10 to 15 yards away from doors, patios, grills, or people trafficked areas. Within 24 hours 80% of the Yellowjacket nests within 100 yards will be dead, 95% will be gone in 48 hours. Colonies up to 250 yards away will be significantly reduced. Yellow Jackets rarely forage more than a few hundred yards from their nest. Monitor the success of the project by keeping a Rescue Yellowjacket Trap in the yard with fresh attractant.
Fipronil is a relatively slow working insecticide which allows the foragers time to return to the nest, feed larvae, and track poison all over the place. Do not use more than recommended because you want foragers to live long enough to return to the nest and then show additional foragers where to find your bait.
Treatment should not start until July or early August. You want lots of YJ’s foragers to collect bait and return to the nest. The best time is when your Rescue traps are catching more than 10 YJ’s per day. Fipronil is toxic to bees too so don’t add sugar to the mix. It should be a meat dinner only which will not interest your honey bees.
A visit to Ray Davis’s Bee House
by John Holmes
On the afternoon of July 4th, Bill Holmes, Linda Bartlett, Susan Brookfield, and myself had the pleasure to visit with fellow CBA member Ray Davis and see the Beehouse and Long Langstroth hives that he has built. This is the first year of operation, the hives were started with nucleus hives purchased with the CBA this spring. One hive had already swarmed, the other hive was packed with bees. A super that had been installed was being filled with honey and indicating the need to add a second.
Ray’s bee-house is 8’ x 12’, it has insulated walls and ceiling, with electric power for lights and outlets. A window provides natural light and ventilation. The wide door provides easy access. In addition to housing two hives and Ray’s honey extractor the house had plenty of storage space.
Obtaining plans off the internet and making adaptations Ray built two long Langstroth hives, they line one long wall of the bee-house. The hive top is constructed of multiple slats which allow opening only selected areas of the hive. The bottom is screened with sliding trays that allows checks on debris and mite drop. Multiple lower openings are available to use in oxalic acid vapor treatments. A viewing window on the side makes it easy to check on colony growth. Each hive has three external entrances, colored either red or white to reduce drifting between hives.
Historically and today bee-houses are common in Scandinavia, Slovenia, Switzerland, and Germany. The bee-house provides protection against the extremes of weather and troublesome wildlife (bears and vandals). They provide the convenience of having all records, supplies, and equipment readily available. Beekeeping activities that are dependent on timing are not restricted by unacceptable weather conditions. Additionally, beekeepers interested in studying their bees, a bee-house offers the advantage of being able to watch their bees in comfort and close quarters.
If you are intrigued, contact Ray he is willing to share his plans and experiences. ray@raydavis70.com
BEEKEEPERS CALENDAR OF SEASONAL ACTIVITIES
Suggested Activities for Beekeepers in the Coastal range from Washington, Oregon and Northern California...
August
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Make sure your bees have a good supply of clean water. Use small pans or if you have many hives, use a child’s swimming pool and float wood or pieces of carpet on the water for the bees to stand on when hydrating.
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Harvest honey.
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Check for eggs and larvae and a good brood pattern. Spotty brood pattern may mean a weak or old queen… After removing supers it is time to check and treat Varroa mites. There are several ways of treating mites. Do your research but you must have an active plan, or your winter bees may be too weak to survive winter. Formic Pro and Apivar have proven effective but read the label and follow the directions.
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Wasps can become an issue this time of year. There are traps and poisons on the market to control wasps. If you do have wasps getting after your hives reduce entrances and close upper entrances so that there is a smaller area to protect.
Washington traps first Asian giant hornet
OLYMPIA – The Washington State Department of Agriculture (WSDA) trapped its first Asian giant hornet this month.
The hornet was found in a WSDA trap set near Birch Bay in Whatcom County. WSDA trappers checked the bottle trap on July 14 and submitted the contents for processing at WSDA’s entomology lab. The hornet was identified during processing on July 29. This was the first hornet to be detected in a trap, rather than found in the environment as the state’s five previous confirmed sightings were.
This is encouraging because it means we know that the traps work, Sven Spichiger, managing entomologist for the department said. But it also means we have work to do.
WSDA’s next steps are to search for nests using infrared cameras and place additional traps in order to catch live Asian giant hornet specimens. If they catch live hornets, the department will attempt to tag and track them back to their colony. Once located, the agency will eradicate the colony.
6 Ways to Tell If Your Beehive is Queenless
By Scott Derrick
You’ve followed all the beekeeping rules, and you’re looking forward to your next hive inspection. But when you open your hive, things don’t quite seem right. The bees appear agitated and maybe even aggressive, and there doesn’t seem to be as many as you remember. Upon further inspection, you can’t find any brood. Could your hive be queenless?
What are the signs that your hive may be queenless?
1. A Drop in Population
The average hive has between 50 to 60 thousand bees. Obviously, you can’t count them, but after spending some time with your hive, you begin to get a feel for what is normal. Bees die every day, but eggs are continually laid to replace those that die. When numbers drop significantly, the queen may not be present and doing her job of laying eggs to replace honeybees that die.
2. Missing Brood and Eggs
During nectar flows, a queen will lay eggs every single day. If eggs are present, you know a queen laid them in the last three days. If bee larvae are present in uncapped cells, the queen laid the eggs within the last nine days. If the larvae are in a cocoon and cells are capped, the queen laid eggs within the last 20 days. If none of the above can be found in your hive, the hive has been queenless for more than 3 weeks.
3. Pollen and Honey Stores Where Brood Should Be
The first job a worker bee has is that of a nurse bee. Without any eggs or larvae to tend, they quickly move to guard duty and then food hunter. This means more bees are out gathering pollen and nectar because they aren’t needed for nurse duty. The pollen and nectar these surplus bees gather must be stored somewhere, so the bees begin using the available comb that would have been used for brood.
4. Presence of Queen Cells
When a queen is failing or absent, the colony will attempt to create a replacement queen. To accomplish this, they make queen cells. Note, however, just because you see a queen cell in your hive doesn’t necessarily mean your hive doesn’t have a queen. But, if a queen cell is present and brood is absent, there’s a good chance your hive is queenless. When you see a queen cell, try to determine what stage it’s in. Does it have an egg or larva in it? Is it or has it previously been capped? This will help you determine if your hive is raising a new queen or hopelessly queenless.
5. More Than One Egg in a Cell
The queen is very proficient at laying eggs and is adept at egg placement. In a queenless hive, workers may begin laying eggs in an attempt to replace her. Workers don’t do the job nearly as well as the queen and will lay eggs randomly, often, more than one in a cell. If you see more than one egg in a cell or see an egg on pollen bread, you know your hive is queenless. When workers begin to lay eggs, you’re in real trouble. They become very hostile towards you and any queen you may introduce. A previously timid colony may even pour out of the hive to defend it when you open the hive to inspect it. At this point, most beekeepers get rid of the colony, shaking out the bees and begin with a new NUC. Aggression, along with lack of brood, often means the hive is queenless.
6. A Large Number of Drones
A hive with a large number of drones is likely queenless or has a queen laying infertile eggs. Workers who are laying are also laying infertile eggs, causing drone populations to skyrocket