Dedicated to Preserving the Honey Bee through Community Action, Awareness and Education
Due to Covid 19 meetings location has changed
Next meeting:
Where: Your Home
When: October 15, 2020 7:00 PM
Speeker: Susan Cobey
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If you live in Longview or the surrounding area and already keep bees, intend to do so or are simply interested in this fascinating hobby, Cowlitz Beekeepers Association is the association for you. Even if you don’t keep bees, joining us will help support our cause, our community action and awareness and education programs.
Speeker:
No guest speeker scheduled for this meeting as of now.
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October’s meeting presentation is still being determined. We need to nominate officers and executive board members at this meeting and will do that first through an email. We have 1 open position on the board so be thinking of people that would help lead the Association.
Zoom
A program that can allow hundreds of people to meet visually and share information remotely from their computer or smart phone. You can also listen in on a flip phone. It is not the same as an assembly of beekeepers but it is an effective way to share information and ask questions. Each monthly meeting has had a few new zoomers that I was happy to see again.
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I would like to see more of you join us. If you are nervous about trying it out, then shoot me an email and I will help you get started. Make sure you set up a calendar notification reminder. There are numerous YouTube video tutorials also. I will be sending out an email with the link about a week before the meeting.
Hope I see you
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You can view video of speakers we’ve had at: https://cowlitzbeekeeping.wixsite.com/website/projects
There is also Honey bee disease information.
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Time to install entrance reducers. You can use the larger opening on the stronger hives but go with the small one on the others.
Handmade Honeybee pattern masks available. These masks are made by Ken Curtis’s daughter-in-law and her sister.
$7 each.
Call or text Ken at 360- 261-2795
The Trachea mite, Acarapis woodi
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by John Holmes
- In 2019 I had a swarm enter one of my empty hives only to abscond leaving behind a dozen bees that would not fly even when prodded. Two of these bees showed K-wing condition, where the two wings on one side of the thorax have become unattached.
- Examining the two hives I lost this Spring I found honey stores, few dead bees, and the queen with only a handful of workers.
- This Summer inspection showed my hives lacked sufficient capped honey for the winter (I had not harvested), so for the first time in the six years of beekeeping I fed 2:1 syrup until the end of September.
Although there may have been other factors involved, in my research on Trachea mites the above occurrences are indicative of trachea mite infestation. The diameter of the honey bee trachea is similar to a human hair. Trachea mites being microscopic makes it difficult for beekeepers to monitor mite levels and determine when to treat. All stages, males and females, larvae, and eggs are found in the bee’s respiratory system. The mites can infest the queen and drones, but the infestation of workers is what really impacts the colony.
In the early 1980’s Trachea mites invaded colonies in Mexico and by 1984 they were discovered in Texas. Although quarantines were put in place and infested hives were destroyed (43,000) the mites spread and were very lethal in thefirst year of contact, up to 100%. In the second year of exposure loss was 50%, and 25% the third year. Stocks of bees that were susceptible simply died out. In 1987 Varroa mites arrived in the U.S. adding to bee mortality.
The life cycle of the mite starts with a mated female leaving the trachea of her host, climbing to the tip of a setae {hair) and makes a transfer to a new host who are generally less than three days old. She is attracted to the first thoracic spiracle which expires air and she generally ignores the second and third spiracles which are used for intake of air. Entering the trachea, she will lay 8-10 eggs, producing one generation of mites per host. Her daughters may create a second generation if in longer living bees (winter bees). Development from egg to adult takes 11-12 days for males, 14- 15 days for females. To feed the mites pierces the trachea wall and consume the bee’s hemolymph. This feeding activity is believed to affect the surrounding flight muscles and/or hypopharyngeal glands. The scarring of the trachea and air flow reduction due to high mite density may also restrict the bee’s oxygen uptake.
Chemical control of the mites is challenging since the mites spend most of their life inside the bee. Fumigation using menthol was used in the early years. The current recommendation of the Honey Bee Health Coalition is fumigation with formic acid, in 65% liquid form or with commercially available Mite Away Quick Strips.
Non-chemical cultural controls designed to interfere with the mite’s life cycle can be helpful. Since the mites like to infest younger bees and older bees have a higher density of mites, management practices that reduce the level of old bees reduce the level of mites. Dividing colonies, done during mid-day, leaves behind older infested bees that are out foraging. By stocking divisions with emerging brood the percentage of young un-infested bees can be increased. Suppling the new divisions with new young queens also produces a high output of new bees free of mites. And finally using practices that reduce drifting of bees, both worker and drones, can help reduce the introduction of mites to the colony.
Another non-chemical treatment that has been found to be effective is the use of “grease patties”, made from a mixture of sugar and solid vegetable shortening. It is believed the bees, in feeding on the patties get coated with shortening that restricts the mites from transferring to new hosts. There are many recipes available, usually consisting of 2-3 parts granulated sugar to 1 part solid vegetable shortening. Recipes may also contain attractants like honey and lemon grass oil to encourage locating and feeding, or mineral supplements for added health benefit. With mite levels usually highest in the fall and winter, placing patties within easy access to the bees during this time may aide in controlling mites given the bees consume the patties. For my colonies I’m placing patties on 1/2” hardware cloth racks, contained in shallow tin foil pans, at the top of my Langstroth hives and the floors of my top-bar hives with plans to remove them in the spring. The wire racks allow the bees access both sides of the patty and the foil pan is insurance if temperature melts the patty.
The final area of control is to select or obtain stock resistant bees. Both Russian and Buckfast stock have shown high resistance to Trachea mites. And for breeding programs, it is best not to use queens that show low resistance.
Sources and additional information:
Honey Bees and Beekeeping: A Year in the Life of an Apiary. 3rd Edition. 2006. University of Georgia and Keith S. Delaplane
This site links to a video on the microscopic exam for Trachea mites. https://catalog.extension.oregonstate.edu/em9145 https://www.ars.usda.gov/southeast-area/baton-rouge-la/honeybeelab/docs/tracheal-mites-resistant-bees/ https://bee-health.extension.org/honey-bee-tracheal-mites-gone-but-not-for-good/
Out in the Beeyard
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by Bill Holmes
I did a cutout September 9th in a barn that was slated for demolition. I usually can convince people to let the bees stay until spring but this barn was well into the process and the owners wanted it down. I knew the bees faced certain death if I did nothing and slim chance if I removed them. It was and easy job since they were in a 2X4 wall at waist level sandwiched between oriented strand board. After cutting away the OSB, I found what was probably a late June swarm. I cut the brood comb and fit it into just 3 frames and then vacuumed the bees into another box. Brought them home and got them all into one box and wished them well. A week later I found the queen had survived and was laying well. They may still be too small a colony at this time to make it, but I am feeling surprisingly good about their chances now.
In this very odd meteorological year my bees are still bringing in a variety of pollen and I am seeing fresh nectar on the frames. For the month of September my average weight gain was 9 pounds per hive and I don’t anticipate adding any sugar during the winter. I planted two Crape Myrtles 5 years ago and this is the first year that they have substantially bloomed. They are blooming now and are providing late summer forage for honey bees which will only get better as they grow. It’s nice landscaping tree and is available in varieties that don’t get real big.
I started making creamed honey a few years ago and in addition to the unflavored variety, I have made it with Lavender, vanilla, and habaneros. I will not be making any more habanero honey because I just can’t get it hot enough without cooking it and cooking means it’s not raw honey. To make the vanilla creamed honey I start with 25 grade B vanilla beans which I bought on Amazon for $35. You don’t want grade A beans which have a higher moisture content. I cut them into ½ inch pieces and add to 2 gallons of honey. I keep the bucket in a box with a 15-watt light bulb which keeps everything at 90 degrees. I stir every couple weeks while letting it soak for 2-3 months. When it tastes right, I strain out the beans but leave the small seeds which are smaller than the sieve I use. Then I add a quart of last year’s regular creamed honey and stir thoroughly with my drill on slow speed with a paint stirrer attachment. When blended I jar it up and then put it in my garage which stays at about 55 degrees all winter. To make the lavender creamed honey I buy organic food grade dried flowers. Again, you don’t want to add any moisture to your honey. This year I bought through Etsy. I will add about 2 cups of lavender to 2 gallons of honey and follow the same routine as with the vanilla, but it does require more frequent stirring. The vanilla adds about $2 to a pint of creamed honey but is wildly popular. Lavender adds about 50 cents to a pint. It usually takes about 2 weeks to crystallize at 55 degrees but that changes from year to year as the glucose/fructose ratio varies and with the amount and type of pollen in your honey. One year my honey never fully crystallized.
Bill
Texas loves honey bees! The Texas Honey Bee Education Association recently introduced a new way for Texans to support education and research programs dedicated to preserving and protecting honey bees. The new “Love Honey Bees” license plate is now available for sale online and in county tax assessor offices where license plates are sold and renewed across the state.
BEEKEEPERS CALENDAR OF SEASONAL ACTIVITIES
Suggested Activities for Beekeepers in the Coastal range from Washington, Oregon and Northern California...
October
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The window is closing for getting your hives ready for winter. If it is still warm, you can feed with heavier 2:1 syrup.
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Take your winter losses now. Combine weak hives with stronger hives.
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Make sure your hives are off the ground—on a pallet or other structure—to prevent moisture from seeping into the hive and to provide ventilation. Having the hive about 18 inches off the ground can help deter skunks and other critters.
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Keep hives exposed to the sun with entrances faced away from prevailing winds.
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Tilt hives so water drains away from the entrance if you don’t have screened bottoms.
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Bees can deal with cold but being wet will kill them.
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Ensure proper ventilation and that lids do not leak. You can also add a ‘quilt box’ or some absorbent material above the inner cover to soak up condensation that the bees create as they shiver to keep warm. This prevents the condensation from dripping back down and chilling the bees.
10-Point Pre-Winter Hive Checklist (from Betterbee.com)
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Feeders OFF - Remove any feeders, including any boxes that surround them. You don’t want to have any empty space on top of the hive. You can leave a frame feeder in place. If you think your hive might be short of honey, install a feeding shim or an extra deep inner cover to make space for supplemental feeding later in the winter, if needed.
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Entrance reducer installed with the smaller notch facing upwards. Unlike in the summer, in cold weather undertaker bees don’t remove bees that die in the hive. During a long cold spell, the corpses will accumulate in a thick layer that may completely block the entrance. Turning the entrance reducer so the opening faces upward will help keep the entrance open even if there are lots of dead bees on the floor of the hive.
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Mouse guard ON -As the bees start to cluster together, they pull away from guarding the entrance, so mice can slip inside. The mice will make a mess, chewing on combs and relieving themselves wherever they please.
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Queen excluder OFF - Leaving a queen excluder in place under a super that you’re using for winter stores will trap the queen underneath it when the bee cluster needs to migrate upwards past the excluder to access the winter honey. This could lead to the loss of the hive.
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Make sure top box is full of honey (or syrup) - Remove any empty boxes. If you returned wet supers to get them cleaned out, take them off before winter. If you were feeding and the bees didn’t put any stores in the top box, remove it. The only safe place for an empty box is in the lowest position, but it’s better to remove it altogether.
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Provide some form of upper entrance - Upper entrances allow moisture to exit the hive; a feeding shim or a deep inner cover both create excellent upper entrances, as well as providing room for supplemental feeding. Otherwise, just make sure the notch in the rim of your inner cover is not sealed up by the overhang on the telescoping cover.
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Foam insulation panel tucked up inside the telescoping cover - Putting a 1” thick piece of foam insulation up inside the cover will help keep the interior of the hive warmer and drier. Once installed, it can stay there year-round. Just like in your house, attic insulation keeps you both warmer in winter and cooler in the summer.
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Hive strapped or weighted down with a rock or bricks to make sure the cover can’t be blown off in a storm. The consequences of this during winter are much more severe than in warmer weather – and you might not notice the problem in time to fix it!
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Insulation installed (if using) -Winter insulation is something that some beekeepers believe in, and some don’t. It undoubtedly gives your bees an extra edge in cold regions, or during unseasonably cold weather. You can use a winter hive wrap, or make your own from foam insulation panels.
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Hive tipped slightly forward to allow any free moisture to drain out. Just slide a couple of wood door shims under the back corners of your hives.
Finally, if your bee yard is exposed to fierce winter winds and drifting snow, consider installing a windbreak upwind of the hives. A windbreak creates a downwind sheltered area equal to about 30 times its height and provides protection from drifting snow out as far out as three times its height. However, in areas just beyond these protected zones, there is increased wind turbulence and drifting. When designing a windbreak, make sure it extends well beyond the width of the area needing protection in order to get the most benefit. Windbreaks can be made from temporary fencing, including snow fencing and landscape fabrics stapled to posts. They can also be made from shipping pallets anchored with metal fence posts. Some beekeepers use stacked hay bales. If using hay, however, make sure the hay is at least several feet away from the hives. This protects the hives from excess moisture and it also prevents the hay from becoming a haven for field mice and shrews which may invade your hives.
We Need Mite Biter Bees
Progress in selecting for resistance to Varroa has been slow but there is evidence that the bees have begun their own fight against the mites. Some queen breeders are trying to help bees in this fight by incorporating lines of bees that have been subjected to natural selection by surviving without miticide treatment.
Behaviors already recognized to increase Varroa destructor resistance in honey bee colonies, include grooming behavior and removal of mites from the bees’ bodies and the Varroa sensitive hygiene (VSH) trait, which describes the ability of bees to detect and remove infested brood where V. destructor reproduces.
Given that behavior traits in honey bees are genetic, it therefore follows that breeding programs can be devised to ensure the breeding of more honey bees with 'desirable' behaviors.
One of the most remarkable developments over the last few years, is the 'mitebiter honey bees'. The mite-biting trait is potentially a further arsenal the honey bee could use in their natural defenses against Varroa.
There appears to be good reasons for bees to bite mites. Bites from worker bees can remove legs, which interferes with the mite’s ability to move and to hold on to bees, and opens them up to dessication.
Selection for mite-biting behavior reduces V. destructor infestations, increases colony survival and increases the expression of a grooming behavior–associated gene.
In tandem with overall colony survival, scientists found that in colonies where honey bees have the mite-biter traits they have higher winter colony survival, and the rate of mite population growth was lower.
Isolated feral colonies have shown a higher incidence of mite biters than managed hives which require active measures to control mites. It is possible to increase our hives genetic resistance to mites through swarm traps placed in areas located away from any managed hives. A caught wild swarm can easily be evaluated for their mite biting tendency. They can then be worked into the apiary and you can use it to produce queens. It will also produce drones that will mate with your neighbor’s queens and possibly impact your geography. It is a slow process but one that might lead to a natural defense. Let us hope these traits will be found in more colonies, and that general honey bee health will be greatly improved as a result.
Honey is one of the most faked foods in the world
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In February 2013, the Justice Department charged two major honey importers in "Operation Honeygate." The importers — Honey Solutions and Groeb Farms — shipped fake or adulterated Chinese honey through other countries in Asia and Europe before sending them to the US. The honey-laundering scheme, which helped the companies avoid $180 million in shipping duties, hid the honey's true origin, leaving few to suspect that it wasn't real.
More than seven years later, a lot of our honey is still fake. According to the Food Fraud Database maintained by the compliance management company Decernis, it's the third-most-faked food behind milk and olive oil.
There's no reason to think that fake or adulterated honey is a threat to public health, but it's still a problem. The manufacturers either dilute real honey with syrup derived from plants, like high-fructose corn syrup or beet syrup. Or they can chemically modify the sugars in those syrups to make them look like real honey.
"Adulterated or fake honey depresses the price for real honey, making honey production unprofitable. The exact amount of fake honey in the world is up for debate. An analysis by the Honey Authenticity Project, an association of activists and industry members, places the number of fake or adulterated honey at 33%. A 2018 study of honey for sale in Australia found that 27% of the products tested were faked or had other ingredients mixed in.
Earlier this year, Vice tested honey brands in several US grocery stores and found that many of them were adulterated. But the threat extends beyond those little golden bears lining the supermarket shelves, Adee said.
"Honey laundering" became widespread when Chinese laboratories began modifying high-fructose corn syrups to make them look like pure honey. The sugars in these syrups — known as C4 sugars — became popular for honey counterfeiters in the 1970s. But they were soon easily detected in tests, so honey counterfeiters modified their methods to use syrups developed from plants with C3 sugars, like rice, beets, or cassava.
The 2013 federal investigation found that Honey Solutions and Groeb Farms had used countries like Vietnam, Thailand, India, Taiwan, Turkey, and Ukraine as intermediaries to disguise the fact that they were bringing in fake honey from China. That practice persists years later.
The honey industry now has basically two ways of testing whether honey is fake or adulterated: checking its origin or checking its chemical composition. Checking the origin of honey is relatively straightforward. If a manufacturer says honey came from one place, but lab tests show it came from another, then we know that something is wrong. But complying with traceability certification organizations is voluntary. And the USDA's grading system for honey isn't enforced.
"Individually, the people that make up the industry, some are very interested in authenticating their honey, and I would have to say that some aren't interested," Anderson said. "The ones that have been burned don't want to get burned again, but the ones that want to buy the cheapest stuff they can find and make the highest mark-up they can make — there are those guys too."
But the FDA has its own challenges. For honey, it requires additives to be listed as ingredients, but has no legal enforcement mechanism for those rules. The agency also doesn't have a great definition for authentic honey in the first place, leaving ambiguity that allows manufacturers to harvest honeycombs before the honey fully ripens.